I recently read a news report by one of the Iranian news agencies, under the title “Mashq Square’s doors will be opened after 19 years.” As the news reports suggest, Ali Darabi, the Deputy Minister of Cultural Heritage of the Islamic Republic of Iran, has suggested that the project related to Mashq Square that started a few years ago is nearing its final stage. In the first decade or two after the Islamic Revolution, I, like other culture and history enthusiasts and advocates, have been extremely worried about the destruction of the Iranian cultural and historical heritage in the hands of the new government, which had declared its hostility to the non-religious culture and history of Iranians from the beginning as demonstrated in comments like: “What was before Islam was a tyranny, and what was built after Islam with the efforts of the kings, especially the Pahlavi kings, is worthless.”
I have been directly involved in related issues, advocating for preservation and conservation of Iran’s cultural heritage for many years. I am also concerned about the other programs that this anti-culture Iranian government, under the name of restoration, reconstruction, and plans, have had for historical and non-religious Iranian sites. These restorations, reconstructions, and designs have always resulted in leaving the sites in worse conditions, and at times resulting in the loss of the historical identity of a work or a site or its destruction, which I call “dehistoric-ization.” (My emphasis here is on non-religious heritage sites as the government has always allocated very high budgets and carried the restorations of religious sites correctly.)
Some examples include beautiful sites such as the magnificent Sardar-e Bagh-e Melli, or the “Gate of the National Garden,” which has been called a symbol of Tehran for many years and is a great tourist attraction. After the revolution, many revolutionaries wanted to destroy the buildings at the Parade (Mashq) Square, but they were saved from destruction by the efforts of Iran’s cultural heritage advocates. However, some of its symbols, such as the lion and the sun engraved on the tiles around the buildings, were removed.
Mashq Square, also called the Parade Square, was a military shooting range during the Qajar period, and is now one of the national gardens at the gate of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, a historical and governmental complex. Some of the buildings are from the Safavid era, while some of the streets leading to it and its various features were built during the Qajar period and the first Pahlavi period.
Even now, it is not clear what plans the Ministry of Cultural Heritage of the Islamic Republic of Iran has for the square and its historical and beautiful complex. However, I am certain that they will destroy parts of it which they “dislike,” and build a few museums of “Islamic arts” in place of the destroyed buildings. I am not exaggerating, as it is enough to pay attention to the statement of the Deputy Minister of Cultural Heritage in a recent meeting: “Cultural heritage is important in protecting public rights. We are the guardians of the preservation of cultural heritage. At the same time, preserving public rights and solving their problems is evident in our duties.” For the people who are familiar with the insidious language of this anti-culture group, this means: unauthorized excavations, destruction, changing identities, stealing, removing tiles and historical doors and windows, vandalism, and theft and removal of historical objects, all in the name of “rights.” For 43 years, the public has had no rights except to misery and poverty and the destruction of its cultural values.
Earlier today, when I was looking at the photos of the front of the National Garden, one of the remaining works of the Mashq Square in Tehran, with great regret, I noticed some changes which could be the result of previous “repairs.” I hope that I am wrong, as I have not been in Iran for four decades. Those who are there and who pay attention to these things must know better, in order to inform others:
The first photo of the head in the National Garden in Mashq Square: two flags with two lions and two suns
The second photo of the head in the national garden in Mashq Square: two flags without two lions and two suns
Some people make excuses for illegally changing the flag of Iran, but is it possible to find an excuse for changing the historical monuments of a land, which also belong to all of humanity? It is important for us to document the destruction and mutilation of Iranian cultural sites for the record and also with the hope that they may be restored in the future.
August 22, 2022